mehrangarh of jodhpur

The name “Mehrangarh ”has been derived from Mihirgarh - which translates to the Citadel of the Sun in honour of the Sun God of the proud Rathore rulers of Jodhpur.

There are 7 entrances in this fort which boasts of impregnable defence. It is said that the fort can survive a rampage of elephants.

Built over a perpendicular cliff, 400 feet above the skyline, this fort has never been taken on a seige. Described by Rudyard Kipling as made not by man but *by giants*

I had the opportunity of visiting the fort and I took the very convenient option of taking an audio guide to take the views and the sounds on my own speed and convenience.

The entry has the jaypol gate or the victory gate. The pillars at the entrance carry marks of cannon attacks by the kingdoms of Bikaner and Jaipur.

In the voice of the current Maharaja of Jodhpur, Gaj Singh II - this audio guide in multiple languages with the music and trivia and the anecdotes of each of the sites - takes you on a journey to the glorious moments of coronation, bravery, artistic appreciation and wonder at the riches of the rajas.

The narration in the majestic voice of the maharajah adds to the drama of the tour with the background sounds. 

Left alone in a corner of the fort with nothing but the sounds of the time - can be a surreal experience as you might feel transported to a different time and age. And as you soak in the experience,a loud tourist with a flashy camera can come over and spoil it all for you.

The entry at Rao Jodhaji's Falsa has an intriguing tale of a brave nobleman who sacrificed his life to the cause of building the fort, his family continues to be honored till date.

This fort was not just built to defend enemies but it stands to showcase the luxurious lifestyle of the Rajasthan Royalty.

To take a leisurely tour of the palace would need an at least a couple of hours, good pair of shoes, lots of curiosity and a bit of imagination. If you are interested in Indian history and arts - this place is a must visit for you.

The view from the top is breathtaking. The city looms over from the side of the cannon, especially the indigo houses.

The Loha gate represents the strategic mind-set of the warrior class. The path to the gate has an angular turn - designed to confuse rampaging elephants of the enemy. The path suddenly turns - killing the animals with spear shaped projections on the gate.

There are shrines dedicated to the practice of Sati - through images of hands. The sacrifice of the queen in the pyre of her husband has been immortalized in corners right next to the loha gate.

The upper level has the coronation throne, galleries to display the majestic howdahs (seats in elephant rides), palanquins and the hookahs, then there is the daulat khana – aptly described as it houses the riches

The upper level has a good view of the different wings of the palace. the royal women had the advantage of viewing the coronation without the gaze of the men through windows.

Near the coronation throne are pictures of the last time the event happened with Maharaja Gaj Singh II – who at the time was merely 4 years old – way back in the 50s

There is a chamber to showcase the howdahs (carriage for kings) made of silver with images of two animals important to Rajasthan Royalty - Elephant and Lion. The current Maharajah's name *Gaj Singh* is a unique combination of both the Royal Animals

The hookah displayed reflects their love for opium. Opium used by soldiers to ease their pain, shared by families in celebrations, fed to elephants during a battle.

There is also a chamber to showcase the palanquins of the queen, which are completely covered in-line with the purdah system. In-fact one palanquin (shown below) was used by the Queen when she visited England. 

Despite the cover, the British Press did manage to get a shot of her feet as she stepped out of the box. The royal guard managed to buy all the stock of the released paper to ensure that the public didn't get to see their majesty’s feet.

Photography in the Daulat Khana requires a special ticket - as it has special exhibits like the weapons of the Mughal & Rajput Warriors.
 

Some of the daggers and war gear reflected the ferocity of the rathores – for example a dagger which after being plunged into the adversary’s body could be manipulated through a release lever to slice and dice inside the body.

The display of various arms is truly spectacular. Proud rajputs were uncomfortable with the use of guns and rifles as they saw the use of these modern weapons as being cowardly, without a fight and against an enemy without arms.

However practically replaced pride and the Royals picked up the rifles with a vengeance. Using it not only for war, but also for their hunting expeditions. 

Paintings of royalty frolicking with the ladies, appreciating the arts, on a shikar (hunt) and posing for portraits give glimpses of their lifestyle. Festivals and events have been pictured well.

The life of the royal women enjoying with the luxury while coping with the purdah system, their rooms and grooming kits, jewellery boxes, beautiful clothes etc are very interesting.

Different rooms like Moti Mahan, Seesha Mahal are an embarrassment of riches. there is a room just for the cradles of the royal babies - some of the cradles are exquisitely designed.

Some of the royal rooms are however quite gaudy with an odd fusion of western and Rajput influences mixed incoherently.

Once I was done with most of the sites in the fort and the audio guide - I spent a moment sitting in a corner gazing at the windows and soaking in the sights.

The experience had been interesting to say the least.

The collectibles shop at exit has a lot of interesting merchandise all priced at a princely amount. it is good for window shopping.

My walk down-town through the serpentine cobblestone lanes back to the crowded markets of Jodhpur seems like it happened yesterday. I'm sure that I would vividly carry the memories of the palace with me for the rest of my life.